Here’s a thorough look at a new pair I received from the Chinese maker Acme Shoemaker, a pair of MTM / semi bespoke split toe derbys with hand braided contrasting stitching. The special thing with Acme is that all their shoes are made to the same standard, from the main RTW range to the full bespoke offerings.

It’s only Acme’s recently launched slightly lower priced Marvel range (which still is hand welted with handmade sole stitch though) and a few cemented casual models that are more basic made. Otherwise, as is evident on these photos here, all Acme shoes really are made to the same standard as real high-end bespoke. This is the third pair I have received from them, where I could see a clear improvement in build between my first two pairs, they’ve now at such a level that it’s not much more that can be done to be frank, and second and third are more equal in make. The lasts have been slightly modified for each pair, and is basically perfect now.

These split toe derbys are made in a dark brown Janus reverse calf suede from the British Charles F. Stead tannery, and with rubber topy and full rubber heel top piece, intention is to have them also in harsher weather. What makes them different to most split toe derbys is the decorative hand braided stitching along the apron seam and as a simulated heel cap. Along with other seams being in contrasting colour, they get a slightly more casual and personal character.

Below a bunch of photos of this pair, more about Acme in this review.